W’menswear AW23, “Flying in Crosswinds” continues to explore the ways gender has intersected with political ideology and been used to legitimate, or resist, different regimes. We were inspired by the life story of Maggie Gee, a Chinese-American woman who was one of two to ever serve in the Women Airforce Service Pilots in WWII. Gee was a determined physicist and pilot who believed in success and social change every step along her path.
We have a deep love for indigo, and this sweat is no exception. It has been dyed by an independent, woman owned business called, 'Nangkhram', in Sakon Nakhon province, Thailand's indigo capital. Situated along the Songkhram river in the north east of the country, Nok the owner, grows her own indigo from seed. She then processes her indigo harvest in great clay fermentation vats, which become microcosms of bacteria that thrive on diets of local fruit, plants, and sugars that vary throughout the seasons. We work in partnership with Nok on her own terms, and in respect for the age old Thai craft that she strives to preserve.
This garment has been naturally dyed using pickled fruit of the Pale Moon Ebony tree, Diospyros malabarica, native to Thailand. Once dyed multiple times in the Ebony fruit, it is hung dry before bing bound and dyed in locally grown indigo. The effect is a cloud like pattern of greys and indigos. As each garment has been hand dyed, each piece will be unique in pattern.
Angelina is 179cm tall and wears a size 10 here, and Aran is 182cm tall and wears a size XL.